Remember that thing called the “all you can eat buffet”?

Before the pandemic, millions gathered every weekend all across America to worship good eating at large, sometimes gargantuan displays of food—all they could enjoy for one low price.

Those are like phone booths and typewriters now. Artifacts of a different time.

But brunch lives on. The weekend, such as it is, is still powered by that curious mix of breakfast and lunch served somewhere between 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. It’s just safer now.

At El Torito in East Pasadena, the lavish weekend spread has been supplemented by sheets of plexiglass, displaying and protecting the food…

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